GRAPHIC LINER

It seemed that for the whole year of 2014 graphic liner was storming the catwalk. Here are some of my favourite looks from both Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter 14!

Missoni

At Missoni SS14 graphic liner was the focal point of the makeup, paired with a nearly bare face. Inspired by Japan makeup artist Lucia Pieroni created this look which looks like a reverse cat eye shape as it flicks towards the eye’s inner corner.

Derek Lam

Tom Pecheux created which looks like a cubist eye makeup design for Derek Lam’s SS14 show. The whole idea of the show was day-to-night, including the makeup. Every time the model went onto the catwalk the look underwent a slight change.

Hache

The theme of Hache’s SS14 show was rock and roll meet romance and makeup artist Val Garland created a strong black eye to complement the look. A black cream product was smudged along the lower lash line and two striped were created on the upper eyelid.

Roksanda Ilincic

MAC Pro Team’s Lucia Pica created a hollow, exaggerated cat eye for Roksanda Ilincic’s SS14 show. Not only was this look feminine but also it was modern and super exaggerated and feline.

Zac Posen

“A deconstructed take on 1940s glamour with a punk edge” was how leading MAC makeup artist Kabuki described the winged liner look he created for the Zac Posen AW14 show. Black horizontal lines were created using MAC’s 205 Mascara Fan Brush and Pro Black Crème Liner. This was through the crease and inner lid (avoiding the middle of the eyelid) and continuing from the outer crease to create a wing that then framed the eyebrow.

Kenzo

One of my favourite looks came from Aaron De May at Kenzo AW14 where he used MAC’s Pro Marine Ultra Chromaline to create this dramatic liner. His inspiration was “1950s with a slight punk edge” where the liner was drawn through the upper lash line and over the lid to exaggerate the eye area.

Jean-Pierre Braganza

“A tri-liner brings toughness to a classic, elegant liner”. This was how makeup artist Terry Barber described his look at Jean-Pierre Braganza AW14. MAC Pro Black Crème Line was used to draw along the upper lash line with an elongated flick and then along the lower lash line to elongated as well. An additional ‘tri’ line was drawn underneath to complete the look.

Taking inspiration for some of the above artists I created the following graphic eyeliner design. Our brief in today's lesson was a quick 20 minute makeup including a clean base, eyebrows, black lips and eyeliner - this can be seen in the picture above of Branka's demo. For health and safety please refer to 'Health and Safety' post,

For skin I buffed in a small amount of Urban Decay's Naked foundaion and set it with Ben Nye's setting powder. When it came to eyeliner, I used Snazaroo's Black facepaint on a very thin and long nail art brush. I found this brush perfect for creating the long feline shaped liner I was going for. Due to my water-y eyes I swapped to using MAC's Blacktrack gel liner.

I am very pleased with how my look came out and I feel it is something that could successfully work on a catwalk show. I feel the eyeliner shape suited my eyeshape well. Some of the line work could be smoother and thats something I'd like to work on. Perhaps next time I'd like to make the consistency of the facepaint thicker and not as wet so it won't drip or transfer. The brief also included black lips, I felt the lips were rushed and spoiled the look so I decided to wipe them off and keep the lips bare. At home I took my time recreating the black lips and you can see this in the photo below,,,

References all viewed on day of post:

http://www.fashionising.com/trends/b--geometric-makeup-graphic-lined-makeup-69075.html

(Nicoleta Parascan, January 20th 2014)

http://www.getthegloss.com/article/aw14-trend-5-ways-to-master-graphic-eyeliner

(Ayesha Muttucumaru, October 6th 2014)